Masai Mara to Kakamega – 11 June

Blog post 7. Team C. Allen, Rachael, May

We all arose pre-dawn to pack so that we could have breakfast at 7AM and depart soon thereafter. A few of us birded and added a few additional colorful species including a Purple Grenadier. Many bought souvenirs from local Masai men include Masai knives of varying lengths, beaded bracelets and shukas (Masai blankets). Our destination today was Kakamega Forest at a KWS camp site where we will be off line for a few days. The trip was long – over 8-9 hours with stops. We stopped in Narok to purchase snacks, diesel and food plus we topped off a SIM card for Dr. Lougheed so that he could (try to) maintain this blog. Folks passed the time in many ways – sleeping, eating food that is bad for us, (ketchup chips here too!), playing cards, and chatting,

And just like that, we’re hitting the road again! We woke up early this morning to break camp and hit the road as soon as possible as we had a long drive ahead of us. We took down our tents with some expert help from John (the first) and enjoyed one last delicious breakfast in Masai Mara. A few of us birded and added a few additional colorful species including a Purple Grenadier. Many bought souvenirs from local Masai men include Masai knives of varying lengths, beaded bracelets and shukas (Masai blankets). Although we were excited for what is to come in Kakamega, we were sad to leave Masai Mara and all its beautiful wildlife behind.

We stopped in Narok to purchase snacks, diesel and food plus we topped off a SIM card for Dr. Lougheed so that he could (try to) maintain this blog. Folks passed the time in many ways – sleeping, eating food that is bad for us, (ketchup chips here too!), playing cards, and chatting.  Some also napped or braiding each others’ hair – those with tresses at least. The transition from savannah to tropical forest was marked, the soil turning a vivid red and the trees becoming greener, and canopy becoming much denser.

At around 2:45 PM, we crossed the equator. Along the way, we saw an Eastern Paradise Whydah, a Brown-Capped Weaver, and innumerable domestic cows, dogs, a few pigs, and geese. We saw some lovely fields of tea at higher altitudes. For some of us (Rachael), the highlight was seeing the massive fields of corn. (Rachael loves corn).
Kenyans are a friendly and hospitable people; as we passed through the seemingly more prosperous towns of Kapsabet, Cheptutu, and Mukumu, many members of the local community waved to us. As it was Sunday, which is the typical market day for Kenyans, the streets were bustling despite the threat of thunderstorms.
We reached the lively town of Kakamega as the sun set, and finally arrived at the Kenyan Wildlife Service campground (called Udo’s) meeting our local biodiversity guide, Job, at the entrance of the forest. We set up our tents quickly in the dark beneath towering tropical trees, and after 11 hours of driving and settled in with a Bocage’s bush-shrike serenading us high up in the trees. As always, the Bunduz staff, John (the second) and Chenze created a wonderful meal in no time at all.

Purple grenadier on post at Tayari Tented Camp just before departure.

Wei sporting her new rhino hat purchased from a street vendor at a Narok gas station.

Kaida doing May’s hair. Verdant Kenyan crop land in the background.

Tea plantation on road to Kapsabet

Sunday market. Road to Kapsabet

Sign for Kakamega Forest – a welcome site after 9 hrs.